Review

Blue’s interiors, created by Paris-based design studio Jouin Manku, set a tone that feels polished yet warm. The dining room looks out over the Chao Phraya River, with a mix of blue, gold, cream and natural wood softening what could otherwise be a formal space. Chef Evens López five and seven-course tasting menus showcase French contemporary cuisine with Japanese-leaning precision and respect for ingredients, drawn from across the globe. Service unfolds through a well-paced journey of signature dishes that remain in memory long after the meal. Bluefin tuna with watermelon radish, sudachi and gold Kristal caviar brings out delicate acidity that enhances natural brininess. Rainbow courgette and Comté cheese contrasts rich walnut praline with subtle fruit accents from blackcurrant sage sauce. For meat lovers, Brittany pigeon, smoked over hay and glazed with cacao, stands out for its earthy depth. A light dish of brie de Meaux mates bloomy white rind, creamy pale interior, and complex, rich buttery flavour with earthy sobacha and Australian black truffle. Chocolate from Ducasse’s own manufacture appears in refined forms, while tropical fruits offer bright contrasts that ground French traditions in a Bangkok setting. Bread service, featuring warm sourdough and butter of exceptional quality, underscores commitment to detail. Service remains polished yet unobtrusive, attentive without stiffness, guiding guests smoothly through courses and wine pairings.