Review

At Biscotti in the landmark Anantara Siam, chef Giuseppe Bonura cooks in the open kitchen, surrounded by the music of knives and pans. He likens cooking to sound with its endless learning and countless tones, so when kitchen meets music in his head, the orchestra begins, a concerto of flavours on the plate. The Sicilian chef traces his culinary map from Northern Italy to the sun-scorched coasts of his youth, working with recipes handed down through generations while applying modern techniques and subtle influences. Panzanella alla Siciliana isn’t humble with organic tomatoes, almond cream, pine nuts and balsamic red onion making it strikingly refreshing. Beef tartare pairs with creamy burrata, roasted shallots and balsamic pearls that burst cleanly. Linguine con bottarga di muggine carries the Mediterranean through red mullet roe, anchovies, garlic and butter. Pan-fried Chilean snow fish meets pork cheek and cabbage in mugnaia sauce, finished with edamame and pistachio that balance unexpectedly well. Grilled herb-crusted New Zealand lumina lamb sits over carrot purée and chickpea fritters with pickled radish cutting the richness. Dessert stays tart and clean: brioscia and sorbetto al limone, orange brioche meeting sharp lemon sherbet. There is an express lunch with salad bar, solo pasta for the purists and a seven-course chef’s table exploring Sicilian traditions. The Italian wine list reflects regional understanding, chosen to complement the food.