Review

Bangkok fans of Japanese dining are likely to be familiar with Umi, the pioneer of accessible omakase dining with several branches spread across the city. Besides Umi is located next door to the Velaa Langsuan branch of parent brand Umi. Staying true to its Japanese dining roots, this cosy and unostentatious Japanese spot gives the traditional omakase format a lively makeover. Dishes remain relatively petite but made for sharing, ideally accompanied by drinks, epitomizing a stylish izakaya. Enjoying multiple snacks and sharing plates is central to izakayas’ fun and social experience. A must-order is the phenomenal tsukune with marinated egg; these juicy chicken meatballs come with silky golden egg yolk for dipping. Unagi shirayaki with nasu is light yet flavourful with umami-sweet glaze over firm but tender grilled eel and aubergine. For something more substantial, order a comforting bowl of organic ground beef Japanese curry rice for guaranteed satisfaction. There is also a sushi, sashimi, and maki platters menu for the raw-food inclined. Besides Umi attracts regulars, and there is a frequently changing blackboard with specials to prevent repetition from the core main menu. One can be assured that all dishes perfectly pair with the Amahagan Japanese whiskeys, on display for perusal upon entry. Choices of highballs, umeshus, and sakes are also encyclopedic.