Review

Baan Tepa mansion is an experience; the house is a magnificent architectural achievement, on arrival take the garden tour where much of the produce is grown for the evening’s dinner. Chef Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam has spent considerable time, establishing an extensive network of valued artisan fishermen and farmers contributing to Baan Tepa’s 100% sustainability mantra. Seating is in the main dining room, with a full view of the open kitchen where chef Tam supervises, with culinary precision, the plating of every dish. The tasting menu is a journey through Thailand’s classics with exceptionally innovative twists to achieve elegant plates of complexity. Examples include the anatomy of a river prawn; grilled river prawn, smoked prawn fat, burnt leek, black garlic, and prawn head, accompanied by nam jim seafood sauce, composed from garden ingredients and crab galore showcasing first, med fai rice toast, black crab miso and blue swimmer crab, second, paddy rice field crab coral, eggfruit and curry, and lastly an aromatic herbal crab broth; a composition of stellar culinary expertise. An add-on chicken liver mousse with jaew and a loaf of young rice sourdough is a must experience. Dessert of burnt banana leaf with taro and pink guava ends the evening memorably. A global wine pairing, Thai-themed cocktails, and a unique longan blossom honey wine are offered.