Review

Baan Phraya sits in a beautiful 19th-century heritage house on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, built by Phraya Mahai Savanya, a former Minister of Commerce. In 1986, the legendary Mandarin Oriental transformed the house into Thailand’s first Thai cooking school, and since opening, many thousands of budding chefs have passed through their doors. Today, Baan Phraya is the hotels flagship Thai restaurant. The menu and narratives behind these heirloom recipes take inspiration from the original owner, who enjoyed hobbies of gardening, traditional Thai music, and poetry. The dining room has preserved original features from a bygone age adorning the walls. The kitchen is helmed by chef Pom Phatchara, from Yasothon northeast Thailand, who while growing up was influenced by her grandmother’s cooking. The meal begins with refreshing bites of miang kham and ma hor and continues with appetisers of riceberry tart with young jackfruit and crunchy Chantaburi crab biscuit dusted with crab roe and herbs, the latter picked from a herb garden adjoining the restaurant. The main dishes feature a memorable grilled Surat Thani river prawn with tomalley, young tamarind, and chilies. The final savoury course is wagyu beef in a rich red curry sauce. An array of desserts reflects the traditional Thai surroundings. The beverage pairing is exceptional, including classics of Condrieu, Rully and a stellar Rioja.