Review

Apsara Cruise by Banyan Tree offers a dining experience along the Chao Phraya River in a traditional teakwood rice barge built in Ayutthaya more than half a century ago. Embarking from River City pier, guests settle in as the sky shifts from clear blue to soft pink before darkness reveals riverside lights and reflections. A violinist adds romance to the scene. The meal opens with la ong nuea, northern-style tuna carpaccio with herbs, makwaen oil and pear salsa. On the other side of the plate sits ouan tai, southern-style crab curry in betel leaf with Phuket pineapple sauce, offering sweetness and heat in perfect measure. Oon u-rai follows, grilled Hokkaido scallop in clear turmeric soup, its broth clean and fragrant, the scallop plump and tender. Goong lai la-moon, charred tiger prawn with sweet basil sauce, lotus stem and sweet pea purée, features fresh prawn with an intense and flavourful basil sauce. Groon gaan, presents Australian lamb in khao soi curry with pickled vegetables, Phuket noodles and crispy egg noodles, the lamb soft and tender, with a pleasing contrast between crisp and soft textures of the noodles. Dessert, ram puey wa na, brings pandan pudding with grated coconut, nam tarn tanod ice cream, water chestnut rubies and melon. Wine pairings progress from Monsoon Valley to Loire pinot noir and Italian prosecco.