Review

Alisa is situated in a tranquil riverside location, within the design-award winning Little Shelter hotel. This contemporary Thai restaurant is the latest venture for Chef Phubase of Aquila fame. The dining room overlooks the river with several charming terrace tables. Upon entering, one is greeted with a cute bar on one side packed with wine bottles, making for a fun way of choosing your pairing. A printed list is also available with several good-value wines. The a la carte menu is divided into appetisers, salads, curries, main courses and desserts with the culinary theme of modern interpretations and presentations of Thai favourites. Chef Phubase needs no introduction, and his focus on creating elegant plates of inventive combinations is evident. Begin with appetisers of sour pork sausage in a truffle egg mousse, a genius twist on the street-food favourite, or foie gras with mango and nam pla waan sauce, the sweet fish sauce perfectly marrying with the savoury liver; the plating is picture perfect and flavours positively dance on the palate. A Phuket crab curry with traditional noodles is on punchy point and braised beef cheek in hung lay sauce is comfortingly rich. A dessert featuring multiple coconut textures is a fitting finale. This is clever cooking.