Review

On a quaint terrace in Chula chef Sirichai Kitvorametha creates progressive cuisine, bringing a touch of Europe to Thailand. The first part of the restaurant name stems from the Parisian street where he lived whilst studying the culinary arts, the second from his Chinese heritage. The menu is a 10-course tasting experience crossing culinary borders. It may begin with a bread-and­ butter course including fermented mini baguette and milk bread shokupan with a complex compound butter, followed by a bite of blue swimmer crab with oyster, beurre blanc and pickled caviar. Slivers of a refreshing smoky fish sashimi arrive with pineapple gel and peanut praline. The awesome uni bun with dry scallops and xo sauce is a culinary triumph. Chonburi chicken egg yolk is another show stopper. Whilst, many dishes are super innovative, occasionally safer dishes appear such as red curry with Andaman prawns vibrant in colour and elegant in presentation. A main course of aged Ang thong Barbary duck is cooked on point, with creamy and buttery potato puree. Vessantara rice from Amnat Charoen is a memorable accompaniment. Apricot seed ice cream dessert with riz au lait and sweet chili meringue, a perfect finale. The concise 20 bottle wine list is more than sufficient with a number available by glass.