An Evening of Nordic Cuisine and Wines from Mosel to Oregon

Chris Watson

28 Dec 2022


Villa Frantzen welcomed famed German winemaker Ernst Loosen to pair a special dinner with his Weingut Dr Loosen wines

Villa Frantzen recently arrived on the Bangkok culinary scene and within a short span of time is already cementing its place with distinctively modern Nordic dishes with delicate Asian influences. Though I have dined several times at the restaurant, I was truly excited to return recently for an exclusive event featuring the highly-rated wines of Dr Ernst Loosen, who is probably the world’s leading winemaker of prestige Riesling. 

As anyone who has visited Villa Frantzen will agree, the arrival experience is second to none. The gates open on a meticulously manicured garden, skillfully lit to highlight the majestic villa and cocktail bar, which are housed in former stables. Here, I am welcomed by head mixologist Gabriel Valdes, who encourages me to join a group of fellow diners already surrounding the Dr Loosen. As the wine expert engages his audience with anecdotes of his extensive travels, we are served Villa Frantzen’s signature oysters and waffles, the former garnished with a spicy pumpkin condiment, smoked cream, finger lime, and sea buckthorn oil. Meanwhile, the latter jackfruit and coconut waffles are accompanied with sour cream, dried nori, beurre noisette, and Villa Frantzen caviar—the fast-becoming de rigueur when dining here.

We are escorted to the main house and upstairs to one of the popularly chic private salons, this particular one with an impressive outdoor terrace, perfect for enjoying Bangkok’s fleeting cooler climate. The menu for the evening was six courses, each paired with a Dr Loosen wine. Whilst the cured Norwegian salmon with beer-poached king crab, partnered with a lively 2020 Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett, and a dish of pearlescent scallop with fermented parsnips in a truffle dashi, paired with an elegant 2018 Villa Wolf Gewurtztraminer, were standouts, an extremely rare 2014 Erdener Pralat Riesling GG Reserve Alte Reben Dry opened our minds and more importantly our palates to the changing bouquets and tastes of aged Riesling. This served to accompany a Cod with Kohlrabi in a goat cheese beurre blanc, for me, was the dish and pairing of the night. This was followed by an Oregon Pinot Noir and a super tender chicken dish. Our experience ended with smoked ice cream and a stellar Auslese, and Villa Frantzen’s signature miso madeleines with raspberry and liquorice sugar—a diner favourite.

As I had been fortuitously seated directly beside “Erni”, I had a ringside seat to his enthusiastically narrated tales of how he began his life of wine and the many wine dinners he has had over the years. I can confidently say that no winemaker I've met has been quite as effusive and energetic as Dr Loosen. He is indeed a raconteur extraordinaire. On my next trip overseas, a visit to Dr Loosen’s Estate House and Vineyards is a must—pre-booked of course—and another visit to Villa Frantzen, probably a little sooner!

Villa Frantzén
7 Soi Yen Akat 3
Open Tuesday-Friday 5:30-11:30pm
087-344-8222, villafrantzen.com