Review

Su Va Na offers Phuket’s most unique culinary spectacle. Descending into the underwater realm of Aquaria, Phuket’s state-of-the-art aquarium, you are attending a private theatrical show staged by the ocean’s residents. The intimate, breathtaking ambience sets the scene for a remarkable multi-course journey. Chef Atanu Nath conducts this extraordinary production, rejecting culinary restrictions. His cuisine a personal blend of European technique, Thai heritage and global travel, delivered with masterful precision. A foray of dishes from seasonal, seafood and vegan menus, deliver food driven by narrative, not borders. The seasonal menu commences with thinly sliced Japanese hamachi, with citrus notes and brightness from lime and ikura, setting a vibrant tone. Hokkaido scallop, marinated in kizame wasabi and served with Hua Hin caviar, offers a subtle texture positioned on passionfruit and coconut cheesecake. The delicate flesh of Patagonian toothfish, bathed in sake beurre blanc, encompasses surprising depth. Plant-based preparations retain intensity and careful composition, proving the kitchen’s versatility. The sweet finale is truffle creme brûlée: a daring combination of shiro miso caramel, fresh truffles and oscietra caviar producing an earthy, salty and sweet combination. Distinctive wines offered by the resident sommelier are exquisitely paired during service and the mermaid show is utterly entrancing. This inventive, high-wire act of flavour demands total surrender. Su Va Na delivers exceptional food within a unique context.