Review

Haoma, is chef Deepanker’s neo-Indian sustainable restaurant. Thirty-seven varieties of edible greens climb various walls. Fish waste feeds the vegetables, kitchen scraps become compost, rain water cycles through. Thailand's first zero-waste urban farm restaurant where the loop genuinely closes. Begin at the RTA bar with cocktails from the Imperfection series, each numbered sequentially. Then take a garden walk: breeding fish visible in their tanks, greens sprouting from every surface. Inside, ten courses trace chef DK's culinary journey. Litti chokha from Allahabad childhood opens proceedings. Butter chicken gets rebuilt: an aero papadum made from chicken skin dissolves on contact, spring chicken breast underneath, fenugreek tuile adding crunch. Teardrop peas arrive sweet and earthy, sharp with cumin. Sattahip sea urchin pairs with raw mango curry and Guntur chilli, the foam made from uni's own juices. Lobster pulissery goes creamy, tangy, topped with caviar. Wild catch floats in Alleppey-style curry with peanut thecha, all roasted heat and coastal richness. Pomegranate citrus scallop chaat follows. Compressed naan comes dense and chewy, entirely reinventing flatbread. Minburi lamb is 45-day aged, cold-smoked, sous-vide, hibachi-finished, sitting on cumin mustard mash with fermented black aubergine, beetroot gel, bone marrow nihari jus pooling underneath. Rasmalai closes: fresh chenna in reduced milk, Chiang Mai honey, citrus cutting the sweetness. The wine list features small farmers practising organic and biodynamic viticulture.