Review

Chef’s Table by lebua defines French fine dining with the theatre of gastronomy built around an open kitchen centred on a Molteni stove framed in marble and brass. Guests are greeted at Pink Bar with aperitif and canapés before moving to the dining room. There, every seat commands a view of chef Vincent Thierry leading his team with a philosophy of simplicity, and a focus on flavour and craft. The creation menu begins with salmon, oyster and caviar, presented with isigny cream and crisp bread, flavours bright yet balanced. Quercy foie gras arrives soft and silky, its richness refreshed by cherry essence and bean, with a gentle crunch adding contrast. Brittany lobster with beef heart tomato is outstanding, meat firm and naturally sweet, tomato deep and almost meaty against an intense sauce. Roasted pigeon with black truffle and stuffed lettuce offers tender texture, fragrant and layered, complemented by a striking Loire red. Cheese selection with dried fruits and chutney includes Chiang Mai producers. Vanilla bleu tart with ruby pomelo and white beer sorbet shines with depth and perfume from fully edible vanilla pods, while Thai chocolate garden with herbal sorbet explores cocoa’s complexity through nuanced textures. Wine pairing is integral, with mainly French wines to complement each course. Excellent Italian and German wines are also offered. Service is truly exceptional.