Review

L’éléphant is Chiang Mai’s ode to classic French cuisine – refined, and best enjoyed with wine. Chef Oan’s background in art elevates humble French staples to exemplary heights, with an occasional Thai flourish. Striking artwork of neo-classic and kitsch styles adorn the walls of a converted house in one of Chiang Mai’s most popular neighbourhoods. A warren of private rooms and shared tables as couples dine across grand marble slabs, while groups uncork bottles over warm teak settings. The wine list is where everything begins, with pages of Chef Oan’s favoured red vintages, organised into left and right-bank Bordeaux, Burgundy and crisp whites and bubbles to keep things buoyant. Appetisers such as perfectly roasted bone marrow or mustard-spiked beef tartare arrive larger than expected, begging to be mopped up with warm, fluffy table bread. French soups like river prawn bisque and classic onion are followed by mains served with the finesse of a Parisian dining room. While the regular menu impresses with snow fish, chicken foie gras, baby lamb rack and A5 wagyu, it’s seasonal specials that keep guests coming back. Think briny-fresh oysters, catch-of-the-day seafood and hearty stews. The seasonal tasting menu is an eight-course delight that journeys through flavour and technique – starting with ox tongue before a delicate French consommé, Thai-twisted coconut chicken and duck, lamb or beef mains.