Review

OXBO, centres dining around a bound by nature concept, weaving natural elements into each experience. Things begin at the gin bar, featuring over thirty labels. Dehydrated and fried watermelon peel and a welcome drink of corn tea with tamarind introduce the inventive use of nature. Vegetables from the rooftop garden appear throughout. The restaurant excels in controlled fire cooking and guests may sit around the open kitchen or choose the seats inside with panoramic Chao Phraya River views. Marrow and beef pairs Thai-farmed wagyu MBS 5 with quail yolk and charred bone marrow, rich with buttery tenderness and deep umami. Crudo presents Tapi farm seabass with orange truffle ponzu sauce and balsamic caviar, balanced with chilli oil and gotu kola. Fish is exceptionally fresh and clean in flavour. Octopus with potato foam, green chilli and smoked paprika brings layers of spice and smoke. From the Yak Thai selection, rib eye of dry-aged wagyu MBS 5 stands out, with seven sauces offered. For sides, choose Oxbo fries, served with truffle aioli, hand-cut and twice fried for perfect crispness. Tres leches, from chef Oliver Afonso’s hometown Barcelona, combines whiskey salt caramel and passionfruit sorbet beneath a white chocolate sheet theatrically melted with flame. Valpolicella Ripasso Classico pairs well, offering oak, vanilla, chocolate, plum and red berries. Service staff are eager to please.