Review

Vegan Mahanakhon is set in a restored colonial style heritage Thai wooden house that is more than a century old. The white exterior stands out from the nearby shophouses that have been part of the local community for decades. Inside, guests remove their shoes and use the slippers provided before being shown across polished teak floors by staff dressed in chong kraben. The restaurant offers plant-based Thai fine dining with dishes familiar in name yet different in form. All ingredients are sourced from Thai agriculture. The kitchen replaces every meat element with a plant-based option while managing to retain textures that recall the original dishes. This is most evident in the assorted Thai platter appetiser which consists of chor muang, ma hor, gai hor baitoey, moo sarong, mee krob and thongplu. A tasting plate is available and includes two pieces of each of the six choices. It is a useful introduction to the style of the cooking and shows how carefully the team handles each detail. Curries can be prepared to the guest’s preferred level of heat. Drinks are presented with care and show as much thought as the food. The experience is calm and measured, giving visitors a chance to enjoy the setting as much as the meal. Service is attentive, creating a pace that suits the surroundings.