Review

Liu at Conrad Bangkok sets a calm, contemporary tone, framed by modern Chinese accents. Chef Andy Fung, emphasises fresh ingredients and balanced Cantonese technique, crafting dishes with meticulous execution. Begin with crispy pork belly with a rigid crackling top where fat renders to a soft, even layer, while the meat stays lean, even better when complemented with spicy mustard dipping. Followed by sliced sea conch with Sichuan dressing, an unassuming yet impressive dish of the day. Crisp conch is sliced thin and pushed forward by a sharp Sichuan dressing, with asparagus, honey bean and fungus adding fresh contrast, creating a bright umami flavour. Next, Hong Kong style roasted Peking duck is prepared with salt and five-spice, air-dried for 24 hours, then roasted in a hanging oven. Crispy skin and juicy meat are served with pancakes, cucumber, spring onion and Liu's renown hoisin sauce. Then comes steamed snow fish with mushrooms, red dates and cordyceps flower, flaking delicately with its natural oils and flavours as the highlight. Braised crab and sweet corn with dried scallop features a warm, rounded broth. Gentle crab sweetness creates an elegant, quietly rich transition to the final course. Finally, mango pudding arrives cold and smooth, its ripe mango sweetness lifted by condensed milk. Simple and clean, it pairs elegantly with a light, fruity wine.