Review

This contemporary Thai restaurant occupies the former home of Siamese silk expert Jim Thompson. Upon entering, a mystifying scent of cultural significance looms. The interior features lacquered wood festooned with vivid indigo silk and a symmetry that feels ceremonial, speaking volumes about its golden age. Begin with satay lue moo, each skewer marked with confident char, paired with peanut sauce that leans savoury over sweet, and accordion-cut pickled cucumbers complementing richness with a vinegared snap. Yum som o goong yarng brings segmented pomelo striking a balance between bright and bold, neutralising sweet herbal spice, yet the prawn stays in focus. Pad Thai, a dish rooted in 1930s nationalism stands out sharpened by tamarind, softened to perfection by palm sugar and grounded by flame-grilled river prawns justifying the signature label. Follow with plah hoi shell yarng, grilled Hokkaido scallops served cool for contrast, accented with fresh lemongrass, kaffir lime, mint, and crushed chilli, a scent that reminds where you are. Throughout the meal the house white wine holds its line, dry enough to steady the sweetness and clean enough to realign the palate between heat and char. Among dessert options, i-tim kluey tod stands tall, a nostalgic trace for many. Golden banana fritters arrive warm, cloaked in coconut-scented caramel, while the cold velvety scoop of ice cream keeps everything in harmony.