Review

Dining at Côte by Mauro Colagreco feels like stepping into a green, blue and grey interpretation of the French-Italian Riviera, on Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River. The space is elegant with soft natural light, mostly river views and a calm, refined atmosphere that sets the stage for a memorable meal. Chef Colagreco’s signature philosophy of seasonality and delicate balance, but with a bolder embrace of Thai produce, is dutifully re-imagined by resident chef Davide Garavaglia and then enthusiastically presented by restaurant manager Gwennole le Bras; completing this trio of world-class competency is sommelier Sabino Jacobone. With a carte blanche philosophy diners can expect to never eat the same meal twice at Côte, but dishes could include blue crab tartlet accented by kaffir lime and fennel pollen — a bright, aromatic bite that dazzles the palate. Hokkaido scallop carpaccio with pomelo pearls and basil oil, a masterclass in freshness, with each element enhancing the other. Andaman grouper with saffron beurre blanc and young coconut is sublime — fish perfectly cooked, sauce luxuriously smooth and coconut lending a rounded sweetness. Dry-aged pigeon with cocoa nib jus and roasted beetroot marries earthiness with a subtle bitter edge. Mango and verbena pavlova, airy and fragrant, may close the meal on a light, tropical note. The wine pairings are divine and the non-alcohol offering feels perfectly at home.