Review

When chef Arnaud Dunand, of Le Normandie fame, branched out on his own a few years back he went large with two separate restaurants (bistrot and fine-dining) at the same Sathorn address. His recent consolidation back to one restaurant, fine dining occupying the bistrot house, is picture post card perfection and has him firing on all cylinders again. The tasting menu presents a selection of Savoie region interpretations of French classics, together with touches of inspiration from Arnaud’s storied kitchen journey. Produce is selected from the finest available and the impeccable service enhances the expectations of each arriving dish. Not to be missed is the iconic caviar potato dish that remains sweet to the taste with a sea-salty complex sea urchin and champagne sauce flourish. For a sense of the Mediterranean, cuttlefish, aigo boulido, Swiss chard ravioli draws on memories of the Cannes seafront in summer. While puff pastry encased pigeon served with finest mushrooms whisks you back into the French countryside. Preceding dessert is arguably the finest cheese selection in the city, many from the alps with surprises from other regions in France. Then a summer dessert of cherry paired with fragrant shiso leaves and sake. The wine list reaches far and wide among some of the French greats including interesting selections from the chef’s Savoie home.