Review

Penthouse Bar + Grill has all the hallmarks of a classic steak house – leather, wood, and low-lighting ambience, shapes and surfaces to dampen the acoustics – minimising clatter, making it easy for conversation, while en- hancing quiet intimacy. The fantastic view presents the twinkling, chaotic, bizarrely beautiful architectural mismatch that is Bangkok. Signature steaks are cooked in a special high-temperature charcoal oven that bestows a wonderful barbecue flavour sear with a thin crust. Even less expensive steaks have excellent marbling and taste superb, and the higher grades are as good or better. Mac n’ cheese, certainly not just for kids anymore, is sinfully gooey with elbow pasta, cheddar, mozzarella and parmesan. Mushrooms are in line with overdue fungus ‘discoveries’ lion’s mane, pink oyster and king blue, all hot seared and juicy. As chef Marco notes, “The charcoal oven’s temperature affects the mushroom in a way you cannot achieve in a regular oven.” Wagyu burger is tasty and tender without falling apart. Roasted garlic head, crusty bread, sauces and everything else are prepared with keen attention to texture and flavour. The wine list is huge, with grape breeds from around the world represented at a civilised price range. The service team is friendly and switched-on and out to make you get the best out of your visit with their impeccable service.