Review

Nestling above a Phrom Phong shophouse, Birdies brings a spirited edge to Bangkok’s dining scene. Chef Jennifer Evans was first recognised in Australia on My Kitchen Rules before opening the restaurant towards the end of 2023. The space feels cosy and casual, perfectly in step with a menu that champions produce-driven small plates, innovative cocktails, and a nice selection of spirits and wines. Opening bites set a playful tone. Everything Parker House sourdough, made from Evan’s 39-year-old starter, emerges soft and fragrant under a sesame crust, serviced with chicken butter that is light yet deeply savoury. Burrata takes an unconventional route, paired with chopped cilantro, chilli oil and pillowy Korean hotteok. Fremantle octopus, cooked sous vide for 10 hours, gains Asian nuance from fermented chilli and XO, balanced by a smooth fennel puree. Fried chicken is the star at Birdies — the only main dish, but one offered in multiple cuts and coatings. Hot honey glazed wings dipped in house made ranch strike a pitch-perfect balance of spice, sweetness and crunch. For sides, mac and cheese offers a rich indulgence, while roasted carrots with almonds and yoghurt lean lighter. To finish, go for platter of sticky date pudding. Arriving warm, its accompanied butterscotch sauce, whipped cream and sprinkle of sea salt deliver a final flourish that is both nostalgic and indulgent.