The season changed, this recently runway, Spring/Summer 2026 arrived with a breath of new energy. The first half of the year saw creative directors and designers swapping houses, brands reinventing themselves, and the runway turning into a battleground of vision and ego. It’s a clear sign of whether they can still dress to impress and captivate the audience.

As the final shows drew to a close last week, one thing became clear: this season balanced classic heritage with a contemporary gaze. We list the creative directors who are making their debut this season below. 

Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci kicked things off with Demna’s campaign, combining exaggerated Italian stereotypes with a reflective humour that captured authenticity through playfulness. He succeeds Sabato De Sarno, who departed after two years in the role.

Dior

Courtesy of Dior

Dior, under Jonathan Anderson, following after Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones, revealed his first women’s collection, a respectful reinterpretation of modern femininity. Shrunken Bar jackets, sculptural silhouettes, and dramatic bows paid homage to the archives with contemporary elegance.

Loewe

Courtesy of Loewe

At Loewe, despite Jonathan Anderson’s departure, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez impressed with playful, surreal styling. Bikini-cardigan hybrids, sunny palettes, and leatherwork–including fringed trims and molded bodices, celebrated the brand’s Spanish heritage with a whimsical style.

Bottega Veneta

Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta, under Louise Trotter, the only woman currently holding a creative director role at a major luxury fashion house, combined fluid dresses with fringe tassels and tailored suiting. Innovative materials added movement and life. Quiet in form, rebellious with texture. Trotter has replaced Matthieu Blazy around the end of January 2025.

Jil Sander

Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni/ Gorunway.com

Simone Bellotti’s collection fused bold colours with architectural tailoring for Jil, channeling minimalist sensibilities while offering a lighter, refined evolution from Luke and Lucie Meier (the previous creative directors)’s tenure.

Versace

Courtesy of Versace

In March, the brand announced that Donatella Versace would transition to the role of Chief Brand Ambassador, with Vitale stepping in as Creative Director. Versace, under Dario Vitale, explored sensuality and human impulses, rearticulating the house’s core for contemporary life.

Mugler

Courtesy of Mugler

Mugler introduced Stardust Aphrodite, the first chapter of a trilogy of glorified clichés. Miguel Castro Freitas, reimagined seduction, merging goddess-like and cinematic imagery into sculpted, provocative silhouettes. Neutral tones allowed the forms themselves to command attention, marking a strong debut after replacing Casey Cadwallader.

Balenciaga

Courtesy of Balenciaga

Balenciaga saw Pierpaolo Piccioli, who officially succeeded Demna, present his first collection as creative director. It combines archival references with Demna influences. Fringe, feathers, florals, and colour brought a rebellious yet playful spirit to the runway, complete with models in casual sandals.

Maison Margiela

Courtesy of Maison Margiela/ Isidore Montag/ Gorunway.com

Maison Margiela, led by Glenn Martens, impressed with Gothic-inspired ready-to-wear featuring stitched model mouths forming the brand’s signature logo. The look was eerie, almost horror-like, yet the sheer, distressed pieces, combined with plastic finishes, fascinated the audience. Martens, succeeding John Galliano as Creative Director, will continue balancing his role at Diesel alongside his new creative vision for Margiela.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier

Five years after Jean Paul Gaultier’s retirement, the house named Duran Lantink as its permanent creative director.  His debut “Junior” collection revived the house’s youthful 1980s club aesthetic. Classic Marinière stripes and tattoo-on-mesh motifs were transformed into 3D optical illusions, creating visual effects that challenge perception.

Chanel

Courtesy of Chanel

Finally, Chanel, with Matthieu Blazy at the helm, combined masculine tailoring with fluid, seductive silhouettes. Low-rise cuts added a contemporary look to classic tweeds, while fringe brought a playful touch to boyish femininity. The collection showcased tweed in versatile ways, with looks styled in more than just traditional pairings. Overall, the runway told a story that ranged from minimalist to dramatic expressions. Blazy’s appointment follows Virginie Viard’s departure in June 2024, after five years as creative director and nearly three decades with the house.

From surreal twists to elegant reinventions, Spring/Summer 2026 proved that creativity, heritage, and audacity can coexist, leaving no room for a flop this season.