Review

Mathias and Thomas Sühring's homage to German cuisine is now a Bangkok land-mark. Opened in 2016, the charming villa exudes an air of warm and inviting sophis-tication, with hushed efficiency from arrival through to departure. This is a temple of gastronomy, each step in the culinary journey a delight as the twins and their team out front and in the heart of the kitchen, compose elegant picture-perfect plates of subtle flavour combinations. The experience begins with snacks, elevated with Kaviari kristal caviar. Classic entenleber-tafel, a decadent duck liver wafer, follows. Next up is king crab with scallops in horseradish and tarragon kombu. Butter-poached arctic char with cauliflower, almond, and caviar comes next, followed by a signature bread course, and then another highlight, an elaborately presented Brittany lobster with white asparagus, morels, and peas. A choice of main, 10-day aged duck with peach, cru de cacao, and vanilla, or Kagoshima wagyu A4 tenderloin with green asparagus, faultless in execution. Have no doubt, this is cooking at the highest level. Desserts compete for attention, with a complex plate showcasing rhubarb and ginger with a Champagne sabayon and lemon verbena. An incredibly fine circular cheesecake arrives with strawberries and shis. Wine pairings are well thought through. The wine list is lengthy and global, and unsurprisingly exceptional in the German section.