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Dr Sahn La-Ongsri developed Thailand’s cocoa variety, I.M.1. His decades of research has reshaped Thai farming and elevated the nation’s chocolate industry.
Today, we turn our focus to an ingredient that often hides behind the sweetness of our favourite desserts, chocolate. While many see it simply as a treat, few stop to think about its origins or imagine that cocoa, though long present in parts of Thailand, could be developed into a serious commercial crop.
Though cocoa had been grown in Thailand on a limited scale, it remained a relatively undeveloped crop within the wider agricultural landscape.
This change did not happen by chance. It grew from the effort of Dr Sanh La-Ongsri and his wife Kanokked. Through their advocacy and the creation of Thai cocoa variety, they helped farmers see cocoa not as an imported ingredient for chocolate but as a crop with strong local potential and national identity.
From Two Origins: Birth of I.M.1
Dr Sanh was known as a specialist in beverage crops at the Faculty of Agricultural Production, Fruit Science Division, Maejo University in Chiang Mai. Tea, coffee and other beverage plants filled his lectures and research. Unlike other crops, he felt Thailand had not advanced far in chocolate production because the country lacked the right technology and sufficient technical knowledge.
Then a chance stepped in. In 1992, through a cultural exchange programme between Maejo University and Wichita State University, Dr Sanh welcomed visitors from Wichita, Kansas. Those guests had a friend in Peru who kindly sent cocoa seeds from South America, including the ICS variety — ICS stands for Imperial College Selection, a well-known cocoa line first developed in Trinidad and valued for strong yield and reliable quality. Then in 2001, support from an academic connection at Central Luzon State University in the Philippines brought Criollo cocoa beans to Thailand. Two different cocoa varieties had now reached Thai soil.
When the trees from Peru and the Philippines bore flowers and fruit, Dr Sanh saw real promise. He carried out cross-breeding between the two lines for research. The early hybrids showed strong traits, so he selected the best and continued the process. Seven generations of cross-breeding followed, with each cycle taking two to three years before the trees bore fruit with the I.M.1 beans.
Throughout this journey, Kanokked stood beside him. She focused on post-harvest technology, especially fermentation and drying methods to raise bean quality. She also helped develop cocoa and chocolate formulas that matched the character of the new variety.
In 2010 he established MarkRin, a chocolate factory dedicated to research and product development beyond the university laboratory. In 2017 he submitted the beans for official certification with the Department of Agriculture under the name I.M.1. Both MarkRin and I.M.1 draw from the names of their children, Mark and Irin.
Strengthening Thai Farmers
The I.M.1 cocoa variety reflects years of patience and care. It can self-pollinate, grows quickly, gives high yields and withstands drought. The beans offer fine quality and release a rich aroma after processing. With a cocoa butter content of 61.0 to 67.0 per cent, verified by Bioversity International under the Cocoa of Excellence Programme, I.M.1 has gained demand at home and abroad.
From these beans comes the MarkRin range, from cocoa butter and cocoa powder to dark, white and milk chocolate, suited to everyday enjoyment and bakery use.
At the MarkRin Chocolate factory, fresh beans pass through fermentation and drying before further production or export. With her expertise in industrial fruit processing, Kanokked leads transformation and quality control, ensuring consistency at every stage. The brand’s recipes first took shape in a Thai kitchen, where chocolate met mortar and pestle and beans met a brass pan.
This hands-on approach allowed them to understand the true essence of traditional cocoa and chocolate production. From that foundation came MarkRin’s recipes, shaped by Thai wisdom in crafting. Only later did the process evolve into modern machine production, while the original spirit of skill, patience and craftsmanship remains at its core.
Beyond production, the family places equal importance on farmer support. In 2018 MarkRin Farm was registered to expand promotion of I.M.1 cocoa across all provinces of Thailand. They promote sustainable cultivation through intercropping systems and organic orchard care. Farmers receive selected cocoa varieties suited to their land, along with mature three-year-old trees that already bear fruit, often provided in groups of 30 to support sufficiency-based farming.
Building Thailand’s Cocoa Future
Today as a result of their work the cocoa grows across more than 75 provinces in Thailand. It provides local farmers with an additional income source and improved price stability.
At the same time, Thailand is steadily gaining recognition for its cocoa quality and an emerging wave of local chocolate makers. From bean-to-bar artisans to established boutique brands, Thai chocolate is increasingly appearing in specialty markets and international competitions, signalling a new chapter for the country’s agricultural identity.
Dr Sanh now serves as Thailand’s representative on the National Organisation Committee for the international Cocoa of Excellence programme. In this role he established the national selection committee that evaluates Thai cocoa beans for entry onto the global stage. He also led the successful formation of Thailand’s first Cocoa Association, created to advance sustainable research and development in both agriculture and the cocoa and chocolate industry nationwide.
Through these efforts, his work extends beyond the farm and factory. It positions Thai cocoa within the international community and strengthens its future at home.
