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Japanese cuisine is often defined by its purity, yet achieving such purity demands masterful precision and technical deftness. Though sashimi and wagyu may seem simple, each cut, each grain of rice and each minute detail reflects years of disciplined craft. For this edition, Koktail rounds up Bangkok’s finest Japanese establishments where excellence requires no declaration and uncompromising quality speaks for itself.
Thailand’s only specialist tempura house committed to the Edomae tradition
Thailand’s only restaurant dedicated to Edomae-style tempura, Ginza Tenharu BKK, is led by Japanese Chef Tarumi Takuma, who brings more than 28 years of culinary expertise. After earning acclaim in Tokyo and Singapore, the tempura-focused establishment has finally landed in Bangkok, ready to present its signature light-batter technique using a selection of frying oils to achieve perfectly crisp yet delicate bites.
Tempura comes in two varieties: seasonal and made-to-order, starting with amakusa prawns that release a natural sweetness upon hitting the oil. Tempura seaweed adorned with caviar and Rishiri-sourced uni stand out. Seasonal vegetables are served at intervals, including maitake mushrooms and sweet white corn. Japanese wagyu is prepared in the restaurant’s signature tempura technique, an unorthodox approach to both tempura and wagyu, yet one that proves remarkably successful.
3rd floor, Gaysorn Plaza, Bangkok. Tel: +66 2 070 0014. Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch from 11.30am-2.30pm, and for dinner from 5.30pm-9.30pm.
Inspired by the rare kinki fish, it is an inviting setting for friends, lovers and family, with a focus on clarity of flavour
Taking its name from a rare red jewel fish that inhabits Japan’s deep waters, Kinki promises a culinary experience built on exceptional hard-to-find ingredients. The dark, modern interiors deliver a refined ambience without trying too hard, confidently progressive in both attitude and style. The wooden counter creates a sense of intimacy elevated by warm lighting that softly reflects across its glossy surface.
Start with appetiser hamachi crudo: Hokkaido yellowtail topped with jalapeño, amazu foam and yuzu caviar. The tanginess of the chilli pepper combined with the zesty caviar marks a refreshing start. F1 wagyu yukke, tenderly smoked, is served with pickles and marinated egg yolk for an extra-creamy touch. The highlight is seven crowns kamameshi presented in a rice pot with four-day wet-aged kinki, Zuwai crab, Hokkaido scallop, bafun uni, ikura and tobiko. Be sure to indulge in their namesake dish. It’s the kind of gem you’ll want to savour slowly, letting every bite linger.
Sukhumvit 59, Bangkok. Tel: +66 81 235 5282. Open Monday to Friday from 11am-11pm, and Saturday to Sunday from 11.30am-11pm.
Ginza-style traditional shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, a tribute to Kumamoto akaushi, prized for its scarcity and exceptional quality
Ginza Shabu-Shabu Koubai is not your typical shabu spot. Located on the fifth floor of the newly unveiled Dusit Central Park, the dining concept revolves around the authentic Ginza shabu-shabu and sukiyaki traditions, with a specialisation in koseigyu Kumamoto akaushi beef, otherwise known as phantom wagyu, which is their flagship ingredient. Although shabu-shabu places are a dime a dozen in Bangkok, the restaurant’s commitment to quality is what sets it apart from the rest.
From the pastures of Kosei Ranch in Aso, Kumamoto, comes tender beef, rich marbling and all. Making up only 0.6% of Japan’s beef, their prized akaushi underscores a painstaking hunt for the highest-quality beef available on the market. Delicate cold roast sets the gentle tone. Yukiyagi somen arrives chilled, sharpening the flavours with dipping sauce. Three cuts surprise with their leanness: spencer roll, inside round and sirloin. Sides including miso soup and rice complete the joyful experience.
Dusit Central Park, Bangkok. Tel: +66 92 636 9459. Open Monday to Friday from 11.30am-3pm and from 5.30pm-10pm, and Saturday to Sunday from 11am-4pm and from 5.30pm-10pm.
Shaped around Mizuki, an imagined globetrotter, and a passion for exceptional whiskies where Japanese technique meets Western nuance
The restaurant’s name pays homage to a fictional woman who journeys across the globe in search of the finest whiskies, her pursuit first sparked by her uncle’s enduring love for the drink. Literally meaning “House of Mizuki,” the Sukhumvit-based restaurant welcomes fellow whisky aficionados into its imagined globetrotter’s world. The décor blends Western and Japanese influences, with wall art enhancing the refined ambience.
Japanese flavours take centre stage, opening with seared tuna tataki glossed with ponzu and paired with refreshing cucumber. The torch-seared salmon arrives in artful rolls, encasing rice from the outside in instead of the other way round, layered with luscious ikura and a soft kick of spicy mayo. Uramaki-style avocado rolls come with cream cheese, cucumber and ikura, a dish that shows a unique blend of influences. The highlight is sashimi moriawase, an exquisite assortment of raw fish featuring hotate, akami, chutoro, otoro and shimaji. The selection varies by availability, making it well worth ordering each time.
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok. Tel: +66 2 126 9999. Open daily from 5pm-1am.
An intimate omakase featuring ingredients sourced from Japan, set within a serene Zen-like dining room
Inside Sushi Kuuya’s intimate cream-hued dining room, Chef Goji Kobayashi welcomes guests with a warm, reassuring smile that instantly melts away any apprehension. It is the cool confidence of places like this that settles diners the moment they arrive, regardless of its modest scale. Stepping through the wooden entrance feels akin to entering a Zen garden, serene without stiffness, composed yet relaxed.
Guests can choose between two dinner omakase menus and a single lunch offering. The evening experience unfolds across 16 dishes, including seasonal seafood starters with nigiri. Premium ingredients are sourced from Japan and paired with rice from an eighth-generation rice merchant in Kyoto. Memorable moments come in the form of boiled live kuruma prawns from Kagoshima and wild bluefin tuna from Kyushu, each prepared to showcase the terroir of its waters. The finale arrives as kanpyō-maki, combining gourd, wasabi, kyoho grapes and warabi mochi.
2nd floor, Vivre Langsuan, Bangkok. Tel: +66 92 916 9299 Open for seating on weekends at 12pm, and Tuesday to Sunday at 5.30pm and 7.30pm. Booking in advance is recommended.
A Japanese dining and bar experience framed by a cellar-like aesthetic and tailored to wine connoisseurs
At first glance, the restaurant’s name piques intrigue, conjuring images of riddles and puzzles. But once through the doors, the mood is anything but puzzling. The interior reveals a rustic, cellar-like space, framed by rows of wine bottles lining the walls like a gallery. The setting feels laid-back and inviting, created with wine lovers firmly in mind.
The Riddler serves Japanese fusion cuisine. The tasting menu presents diners with four appetisers, a main dish and dessert. The must-order is uni toast, a delicate bite of Hokkaido sea urchin, beef tartare and caviar, playfully contrasting the texture of toast with that of minced raw meat. Ceviche is made with greater amberjack freshly caught from the seas of southern Thailand, topped with iburigakko pickles, avocado and beetroot sauce. Slow-cooked duck breast comes with duck jus, firm yet yielding on the palate. The main course features an 18-day dry-aged ribeye served with confit vegetables and jus, balanced and tender.
1st floor, Woodberry Common, Soi Ruamrudee, Bangkok. Tel: +66 82 547 7005. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 4pm-11pm.
A contemporary sushi counter set in a light-filled space softened by timber tones and floral colours
Set inside Vie Hotel Bangkok – MGallery Collection, YTSB is a contemporary sushi bar distinguished by its undulating ceiling design and rich wood accents, which lend a convivial spirit to the dining room. With pink and white flowers and other delicate plant arrangements softly framed against warm lighting, the atmosphere feels relaxed and airy, brightened with measured specks of colour.
Alongside its à la carte offerings the restaurant presents three seasonal omakase menus featuring top-quality ingredients flown from Japan, including appetisers and sushi to seafood, meat, noodles, soup and dessert. Sushi is given modern twists, including chuturo garnished with black truffle, flounder topped with engawa and botan shrimp finished with karasumi. Meat is unparalleled in its marbling and flavour. The standout is beef raised in Nagi, Okayama. Order inaniwa udon for a change of texture, adorned with minced tuna, sea urchin, salmon roe and grated yam, all presented in a crystal-clear broth. Zesty yuzu sorbet wraps everything up nicely.
117/39-40 Phayathai Rd, Bangkok. Tel: +66 2 309 3939. Open daily for lunch from 12pm-3pm, and for dinner from 6pm-9pm.
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