The timeless elegance of Thailand’s beloved queen, whose grace and vision shaped Thai identity and elevated Thai silk onto the world stage.

The nation mourns the passing of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother, and yet today it is a moment to turn the spotlight on her influence on Thai identity and fashion, a reflection of her exquisite sense of style and the luminous dignity with which she carried Thailand’s heritage on the world stage. Her wardrobe was a statement of identity, craft and national pride.

Celebrating a Lifetime of Style

Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother’s sense of style was admired not only in Thailand but across the world. From elegant Thai royal costumes to refined international fashion, her wardrobe reflected grace, sophistication, and cultural pride. Over the years, she combined traditional Thai textiles with modern silhouettes, and on state visits, she often wore tailored gowns and couture ensembles that captured global attention.

This collection of iconic looks showcases her timeless elegance, highlighting how she balanced Thai heritage with international style.

Identifying a Need for National Dress

In the 1960s, as she accompanied His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great on diplomatic visits across Europe and America, Her Majesty recognised that while Thailand possessed magnificent cultural traditions, women lacked a formal national dress that could confidently represent their identity abroad. With this vision, she commissioned research into the garments of the ancient royal court and reimagined them through modern tailoring to create designs that were elegant, wearable and timeless.

While all eight Royal Thai Costumes themselves were entirely Thai in origin, Her Majesty also drew inspiration from international fashion. She collaborated with renowned French couturier Pierre Balmain, particularly to refine her personal diplomatic wardrobe for state visits to the West. Balmain’s influence is most notable in adapting traditional Thai silks and motifs into Western-style garments suitable for international events, and he contributed to the designs of formal gowns such as Thai Dusit and Thai Chakri. However, the ultimate creation of the eight Royal Thai Costumes was a broader, multifaceted effort led by Queen Sirikit, synthesising Thai history with modern elegance.

The Birth of the Royal Thai Costumes

The outcome of her domestic design initiative was the creation of the “Chut Thai Phra Ratchaniyom” (Royal Thai Costumes), eight distinctive styles that remain the foundation of Thai national dress today.

In naming the costumes, Her Majesty graciously entrusted Mom Luang Maneerat Bunnag her lady-in-waiting at the time, to give each outfit its official title. Drawing inspiration from royal halls, palaces and significant locations within the Grand Palace and Dusit Palace, these names were then authorised by Her Majesty for use by Thai women as examples for tailoring and everyday wear.

Each of these designs embodies a particular moment in occasion and formality:

• Thai Boromphiman: Long-sleeved, collared and gracefully fitted, this gown combines the blouse and sinh into one elegant piece. Majestic yet composed, it is suited to formal indoor events, royal banquets and ceremonial functions.

• Thai Chakraphat: The pinnacle of Thai national dress, richly embroidered and stately, featuring a wrapped sbai of heavier fabric adorned across the upper body. Reserved for the highest level of royal or national ceremonies, it conveys regal dignity and splendour.

• Thai Siwalai: A full-length gown with a refined shoulder sash resembling a sbai, worn for state occasions and royal gatherings. Similar in form to Boromphiman but distinguished by its graceful drape and ceremonial presence.

• Thai Amarin: Evening attire crafted from brocaded silk, featuring a softly fitted top with sleeves just below the elbow. Elegant and refined, it is worn for royal dinners and formal celebrations, radiating understated sophistication.

• Thai Chakri: Perhaps the most recognised, combining a pha sin of yok silk with pleated folds in front and a shoulder-draped sbai. Woven with gold or silver threads, it embodies the essence of Thai femininity and timeless grace.
• Thai Dusit: A sleeveless gown of Western influence, fashioned from lustrous yok silk or brocade. Sleek and modern in silhouette, it brings Thai silk into the realm of evening refinement with serene elegance.

• Thai Chitralada: A semi-formal style suited for daytime official functions or royal audiences, featuring a long-sleeved silk blouse fastened with ornamental buttons and a pha sin with a brocaded hem. Tasteful and polished, it bridges formality and approachability.

• Thai Ruean Ton: A relaxed yet gracious ensemble for informal occasions, comprising a collarless blouse with elbow-length sleeves and a simple or striped pha sin. Comfortable and elegant, it is ideal for temple festivals and casual daytime wear.